Autumn Olive
Also known as: Elaeagnus umbellata · Autumn olive tree · Japanese silverberry
Invasive — please don't plant
When & where
Germination
Spacing & depth
How to plant
Invasive in much of North America — please don't plant it. This page is here so you can identify it and choose a native alternative. Stratify seed as noted. Sow in deep tree pots (tall root trainers) filled with well-drained mix. Keep evenly moist and in bright light after germination. Grow on for 1–2 seasons before planting out to a permanent, well-prepared site with a wide mulch ring.
Pre-sow treatment
30–90 days cold stratification; scarify for better germination.
Grower's tip
Invasive in much of North America — please don't plant it. This page is here so you can identify it and choose a native alternative. Nitrogen-fixing shrub with silvery leaves and tart red berries. Check local invasive status.
Woody plant facts
Good to know before you grow this
Can spread aggressively and is invasive in some regions — check your local invasive-species list before planting.
Soil preferences
Deep, well-drained native soil. Avoid amending the planting hole heavily — roots should learn to grow into the surrounding earth.
5.5–7.5 depending on species (conifers lean acidic; most hardwoods neutral).
Top-dress with compost and mulch in a wide ring; don't backfill with pure compost.
Watering
Deep soak weekly the first two years while roots establish; taper once the tree self-supports.
Slow trickle at the drip line, not the trunk. A 5-gal bucket with a pinhole is ideal.
Overwatered: yellowing, root rot, mushroom collar. Underwatered: leaf scorch, early leaf drop.
Prefers top-watering — Trees are always top-watered — deep slow soak at the drip line, never at the trunk. Bottom-watering only makes sense for nursery seedlings.
Temperature tolerance
Broad — most species tolerate 40–90°F once established
Down to species-rated USDA zone minimum
Hardy once established; young seedlings need protection their first winter.
Special germination requirements
Most temperate tree seed needs cold stratification (30–120+ days at 34–41°F) — see each species entry for the exact time.
Container growing
Possible with the right cultivar
Deep tree pots (root trainers) for the first 1–2 seasons; permanent site required for full growth.
Only dwarf, patio, or bonsai forms live long-term in containers.
Detailed harvesting
Not applicable for ornamental/timber trees. Nut and fruit species — pick when they drop naturally.
Post-harvest storage & preservation
Nuts: keep damp and cool, sow promptly. Winged/coned seed: dry, cool, dark in a sealed jar.
Culinary, medicinal & other uses
Shade, windbreak, wildlife habitat, timber, ornament, and long-term carbon storage.
Medicinal or traditional uses are shared for interest only — this is not medical advice. Consult a qualified professional before using any plant medicinally.
Seed saving
Wind- or insect-pollinated; seedlings rarely match the parent exactly (especially named cultivars — those must be grafted or cutting-grown).
Not practical for trees. Expect variation.
Collect fully ripe seed in fall, clean, dry or keep damp per species, then cold-stratify before spring sowing.
Your zone's planting calendar
Pick your USDA hardiness zone and we'll estimate the key dates for autumn olive in your area. These are regional averages — always check your own last-frost forecast before sowing.
My Autumn Olive notes
Autumn Olive seeds on hand
Track packets and loose seeds you already have. Private to your account.
Par level — leave at 0 for no alert. Anything below par shows on Seed Starting and your shopping list.
Order more seeds
Running low? Reorder from one of these seed stores.
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