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Olive

Fruit
See genus notes
Full sun to part shade

Also known as: Olea europaea

Varieties

1 types of olive

When & where

Season
See genus notes — sow in appropriate season for zone
USDA zones
8–11 (needs frost-free winters below about 15°F/−9°C)
Sun
Full sun to part shade
Start indoors
8–10 weeks before last frost (or per species)
Direct sow outdoors
After last frost, or fall for stratifiers
Days to harvest
3–5 years from a cutting-grown tree; 8–12 years from seed

Germination

Germination time
30–90 days after cold treatment.
Soil temperature
60–75°F (15–24°C)

Spacing & depth

Sow depth
Crack or scarify the pit, soak, then sow 1/2–1 in (12–25 mm) deep. Germination is slow and erratic.
Seed spacing
Space in flats or direct-sow rows
Mature plant spacing
Space to the mature spread — 15–25 ft (4.5–7.6 m)
Row spacing
Leave walking room — at least the plant's mature width between rows

How to plant

Consult species-specific guidance. Most benefit from good drainage, patience, and matching zone.

Grower's tip

Mediterranean fruit tree — needs hot dry summers and mild winters. Slow to bear from seed; graft named varieties.

Woody plant facts

USDA zones
8–11 (needs frost-free winters below about 15°F/−9°C)
Mature height
20–30 ft (6–9 m); kept to 12 ft in cultivation
Mature spread
15–25 ft (4.5–7.6 m)
Years to fruit
3–5 years from a cutting-grown tree; 8–12 years from seed
Chill hours
200–300 hours below 50°F to set flower buds — olives will not fruit in a warm tropical winter
Pollination
Many cultivars are partly self-fertile, but a second variety roughly doubles fruit set.
Rootstock
Usually grown on its own roots from cuttings — seedling olives are slow and variable.
Planting depth for seed
Crack or scarify the pit, soak, then sow 1/2–1 in (12–25 mm) deep. Germination is slow and erratic.
Soil pH
6.0–8.0 — tolerates alkaline and rocky ground
Disease & problem notes
Olive knot and verticillium wilt. Avoid pruning in wet weather and never plant where tomatoes or cotton grew.

Soil preferences

Soil type

Deep, rich, well-drained soil with high organic matter.

pH range

6.0–6.8 for most; strawberries and blueberries prefer 4.5–6.0.

Amendments

Compost annually; mulch with wood chips for perennial fruits.

Watering

Frequency

1–2 in per week; deeper as plants establish.

Method

Soak the root zone, not the foliage. Drip irrigation is ideal for long-lived plantings.

Over vs. under

Overwatered: fruit split, root rot, mushy fallen fruit. Underwatered: shriveled berries, dropped flowers, sunscald.

Top-water or bottom-water?

Prefers top-watering — Trees are always top-watered — deep slow soak at the drip line, never at the trunk. Bottom-watering only makes sense for nursery seedlings.

Temperature tolerance

Ideal daytime air temp

70–85°F (21–29°C)

Ideal nighttime air temp

55–70°F (13–21°C)

Frost sensitivity

Tropical fruits (passionfruit, pepino, naranjilla) frost-tender. Temperate fruits (pomegranate, fig, sea buckthorn) tolerate hard freezes once established.

Container growing

Container-suitable?

Possible with the right cultivar

Recommended pot size

10+ gal (38 L) for tree fruit; 3–5 gal for berry canes; 12 in deep for strawberries

Notes

Choose dwarf or patio cultivars for containers; overwinter tender types indoors.

Detailed harvesting

Pick fully ripe — fruit sweetens on the plant, not the counter. Test with a gentle tug; ripe fruit releases easily.

Post-harvest storage & preservation

Refrigerate soft fruit unwashed 3–7 days. Freeze on trays, then bag. Dehydrate slices at 135°F. Jam or preserve surplus.

Culinary, medicinal & other uses

Fresh eating, jam, wine, syrup, drying. Use imperfect fruit for cooking; keep the best for the table.

Medicinal or traditional uses are shared for interest only — this is not medical advice. Consult a qualified professional before using any plant medicinally.

Seed saving

Pollination

Most perennial fruit are insect-pollinated and often not true-to-type from seed.

Isolation needs

Named cultivars must be propagated by cutting, division, or graft to stay true.

How to save

Rinse seeds from ripe pulp; dry 1–2 weeks. Many need cold stratification before sowing.

Your zone's planting calendar

Pick your USDA hardiness zone and we'll estimate the key dates for olive in your area. These are regional averages — always check your own last-frost forecast before sowing.

From your kitchen — grow olive from what you already have

For fleshy fruits (tomato-family, melons, ground cherries), ferment the seed out. For dry-seeded fruits (roselle, hibiscus family), just let capsules dry on the plant.

  1. 1Fleshy fruit: scoop seeds and pulp into a jar of water; ferment 2–4 days until it molds; rinse, dry.
  2. 2Dry-seeded fruit: let capsules turn brown on the plant, then split and tap seeds out.
  3. 3Perennial fruits (fig, pomegranate, sea buckthorn): far easier from cuttings, division, or suckers than seed.
  4. 4Store all seed cool, dark, and dry in labeled envelopes.

Storage: 3–6 years dry.

My Olive notes

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