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Onion

Bulb
Cool season
Full sun

Also known as: Bulb onion · Allium cepa

Varieties

11 types of onion

Day-neutral (Candy, Cortland)

100 days

Bulbs anywhere. Great for gardeners at 35–37°N.

Full growing guide →

Long-day (Walla Walla, Yellow Sweet Spanish)

110 days

For latitudes above 37°N — bulbs when days hit 14–16 hours.

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Red (Red Wing, Redwing)

115 days

Long-day storage red. Sharp raw, sweetens when cooked.

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Red Baron

115 days

Long-day storage red onion with deep burgundy rings. Firm, keeps well; sharper than the sweet reds.

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Red Creole

110–120 days

also: Allium cepa 'Red Creole', Red Creole Edible Onion

Short-day, pungent red onion with excellent storage quality. Best in southern and mild-winter regions.

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Scallion / Green (Evergreen)

60 days

Non-bulbing bunching onion. Cut and come again all season.

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Shallot

100 days

Multiplies into a clump. Milder, sweeter than onion — grow from sets.

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Short-day (Texas Sweet, Granex)

110 days

For the South (below 35°N) — bulbs at 10–12 hours.

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White Lisbon (bunching)

60 days

Classic scallion — non-bulbing white-stemmed bunching onion. Cold-hardy; sow spring through fall.

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White Spear Bunches (bunching)

60–80 days

also: Allium fistulosum 'White Spear Bunches', Bunching Onion, Long Green Onion, Spring Onion, Welsh Onion

Does not form a true bulb — grown for long white shanks and green tops. Very cold-hardy and perennial in mild climates.

Full growing guide →

White Sweet Spanish

110–130 days

also: Allium cepa 'White Sweet Spanish', White Sweet Spanish Onion

Long-day sweet onion with thick, juicy rings. Not a long keeper — use fresh or freeze sliced.

Full growing guide →

When & where

Season
Cool season — day length triggers bulbing
USDA zones
Annual in zones 3–9
Sun
Full sun
Start indoors
10–12 weeks before last frost
Direct sow outdoors
4–6 weeks before last frost, or transplant sets/starts
Days to harvest
90–120 days

Germination

Germination time
7–14 days
Soil temperature
60–75°F (15–24°C)

Spacing & depth

Sow depth
1/4" (6 mm)
Seed spacing
1/4–1/2 in (6–12 mm) in rows; transplant or thin to 4–6 in
Mature plant spacing
4–6 in (10–15 cm)
Row spacing
12 in (30 cm)

How to plant

Match the variety to your latitude — this is critical. Long-day for the North (14+ hrs), short-day for the South (10–12 hrs), day-neutral in between. Start seed indoors, trim tops to 3" for stronger transplants.

Grower's tip

When tops flop over, bend the rest, then lift and cure in a shady dry spot for 2 weeks.

Soil preferences

Soil type

Loose, well-drained soil — bulbs rot in wet feet.

pH range

6.0–7.0

Amendments

Compost + bone meal or rock phosphate worked into the planting hole.

Watering

Frequency

Water in at planting, then only during active growth. Let bulbs go dry during dormancy.

Method

Deep watering at the base. Avoid overhead watering after leaves die back.

Over vs. under

Overwatered: soft, mushy bulbs at harvest; basal plate rot. Underwatered: small bulbs, thin necks.

Top-water or bottom-water?

Prefers top-watering — Top-water at the soil surface — keep the necks and crowns as dry as possible to prevent basal rot.

Temperature tolerance

Ideal daytime air temp

60–75°F (15–24°C) during growth

Ideal nighttime air temp

40–60°F (4–15°C)

Frost sensitivity

Hardneck garlic, shallots, and daffodils need a cold winter to bulb properly. Tender bulbs (dahlia, gladiolus) must be lifted in cold zones.

Container growing

Container-suitable?

Yes — great in containers

Recommended pot size

8+ in deep, wide enough to space bulbs 2–3× their diameter

Notes

Deep pot for tulips and daffodils; shallow bowls for crocus.

Detailed harvesting

For garlic and onion: dig when the bottom 3 leaves brown and top leaves still stand. Loosen with a fork, don't yank. Cure whole plants 2–3 weeks in a warm, airy, shaded spot.

Post-harvest storage & preservation

After curing, trim tops and roots. Store hardneck garlic 4–6 months, softneck 8+ months in a cool (50–60°F), dry, dark spot with airflow. Never in the fridge.

Culinary, medicinal & other uses

Culinary staple (allium bulbs), cut flowers (tulip, daffodil, lily), forced blooms indoors, or perennial garden color.

Medicinal or traditional uses are shared for interest only — this is not medical advice. Consult a qualified professional before using any plant medicinally.

Seed saving

Pollination

Propagate by offset bulblets, not seed — bulbs mature much faster from a clove/bulb than from seed.

Isolation needs

Not applicable when replanting clones. Cross-pollinated seed rarely comes true.

How to save

Save the biggest, firmest bulbs each year and replant. Over generations you build a locally-adapted strain.

Your zone's planting calendar

Pick your USDA hardiness zone and we'll estimate the key dates for onion in your area. These are regional averages — always check your own last-frost forecast before sowing.

From your kitchen — grow onion from what you already have

Two ways to grow from a store onion: replant a sprouting onion for green tops and eventual seed, or (much faster) buy 'onion sets' — tiny dormant bulbs.

  1. 1For green onions immediately: cut off the root end (1/2 in with roots attached) and plant it root-down in soil. Green tops in 2 weeks.
  2. 2For a full bulb crop: onions are biennials — a first-year bulb replanted in year 2 sends up a seed stalk. Let umbels dry, rub seed off, store cool.
  3. 3For real production: skip seed and plant sets or transplants in early spring, 4 in apart, 1 in deep.

Storage: Onion seed only stays viable 1–2 years — buy fresh or save annually.

My Onion notes

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